In brief: You can grow tomatoes successfully by starting seeds indoors from March and planting the young plants outdoors after the last frosts. Choose a sunny, sheltered spot and nutrient-rich soil. Regular watering, removing side shoots and feeding are the cornerstones of tomato care. The range of varieties extends from hardy patio tomatoes to aromatic beefsteak tomatoes.
Growing tomatoes: The complete journey from sowing to harvest
Tomatoes belong in every vegetable garden. Growing them is rewarding if you follow a few basic rules. The process begins in spring on a windowsill and ends with harvesting delicious fruit well into autumn.
You do not need any special equipment. Quality seeds, seed-starting compost and plenty of light provide the foundation. The effort involved in raising your own plants is worthwhile because you get robust plants and a wider choice of varieties than at a garden centre.
Suitable planting accessories make the work easier. From watering to plant protection, you will find everything you need.
Getting started: Raising tomato plants on the windowsill
Fill seed trays or small pots with low-nutrient seed-starting compost. Press the tomato seeds about half a centimetre deep into the compost and cover them lightly. Keep the growing medium consistently moist with a spray bottle, but not wet.
Place the containers in a warm, bright spot away from direct midday sun. A temperature above 20 degrees is ideal for germination. A transparent cover creates a humid microclimate.
Expert tip
Label your sowings immediately with the variety name and date. Use waterproof labels. If you grow many different tomato varieties, you can quickly lose track of them otherwise.
After germination, the seedlings need as much light as possible. A spot directly by a south-facing window is perfect. Turn the pots regularly so the plants do not grow unevenly towards the light.
Pricking out: More space for strong roots
As soon as the first pair of true leaves appears after the seed leaves, it is time to prick out the seedlings. Transfer each plant to its own larger pot. Handle the delicate seedlings carefully by the leaves, not by the stem.
Now use richer but still loose soil. Plant the seedling slightly deeper than before. Tomatoes form additional roots all along the part of the stem buried in the soil. This makes them more stable and vigorous.
and are ideal starter pots for this stage. They give young tomato plants enough room to develop a strong root system.
How do you care for tomato plants outdoors?
After the last frosts in mid-May, tomato plants can be moved outdoors. Gradually acclimatise them to sun and wind over the course of a week. A few hours outdoors each day is enough to begin with.
The final location should be sunny, warm and sheltered. A south-facing house wall is ideal. The soil must be rich in nutrients, deep and well drained. Improve heavy soils with sand or fine gravel.
Important note
Never plant tomatoes in the same spot two years in a row. Do not plant them near potatoes, peppers or aubergines either. These nightshade plants encourage the spread of diseases such as late blight.
Water tomato plants regularly and thoroughly. The root ball should never dry out completely. However, avoid getting the leaves wet. Water directly at the base of the plant, preferably in the morning.
A mulch layer made from straw or grass clippings keeps the soil moist and prevents soil from splashing onto the leaves when it rains. This significantly reduces the risk of fungal diseases.
The essentials: Feeding and removing side shoots
Tomatoes are heavy feeders. They need plenty of nutrients for growth and fruit production. Before planting, work mature compost or an organic slow-release fertiliser into the planting hole.
From the start of fruit formation, feed every one to two weeks with a liquid tomato fertiliser. It contains plenty of potassium for fruit set and little nitrogen, which would otherwise only encourage leaf growth. You will find special products in our plant fertiliser range.
“When removing side shoots, do not snap them off; carefully pinch them out with your fingernails. A clean cut heals better and gives pathogens less opportunity to enter.”
Removing side shoots is essential for cordon tomatoes. Remove the shoots that grow in the leaf axils between the main stem and leaf stalk. This allows the plant to direct all its energy into the main stems and fruit.
Tie the plants to sturdy stakes or spiral supports at an early stage. This prevents the stems from breaking and keeps the fruit clean. Use soft tying material such as coconut twine.
Which tomato varieties should you choose for your garden?
The choice is enormous. Varieties differ in growth habit, fruit size, colour, flavour and ripening time. The right choice depends on your space and preferences.
Cordon tomatoes grow tall and need support. They produce fruit over a long period and provide high yields in a small area. Beefsteak tomatoes are large, juicy varieties that are ideal for salads and sauces.
Cherry or truss tomatoes are small, sweet and aromatic. They are perfect for snacking straight from the plant or using as a garnish. Bush tomatoes remain compact and do not need their side shoots removed. They are ideal for containers and small gardens.
Additional advice
As well as red varieties, try yellow, orange or dark purple tomatoes. They often contain different nutrient profiles and add variety to your plate. Heritage varieties are often hardier and more flavoursome than modern hybrids.
Wild tomatoes are the original forms. They are extremely robust, grow vigorously and produce lots of small, aromatic fruit. They are well suited to growing without support or in a hanging basket.
Resistant varieties: Less work, more success
For wet summers or rainy regions, resistant varieties are a smart choice. They are less susceptible to the dreaded late blight. Seed packets feature labels such as “F1” for hybrids or “resistant to…”
Resistance does not mean that the plant is immune. It becomes diseased later or is affected less severely. Even with resistant varieties, combine them with good care practices such as rain protection.
Discover a wide selection of seeds in our tomato seeds category. Here you will find both classic varieties and rarities.
How do you protect tomatoes from diseases and pests?
Prevention is the best protection. Healthy, well-nourished plants in an optimal location are more resilient. Make sure there is enough space between plants for good air circulation.
Blight is the most common disease. You can identify it by grey-brown spots on the leaves and stems, followed later by brown, sunken patches on the fruit. Remove affected plant parts immediately and dispose of them with household waste.
A tomato shelter or planting under a covered area protects against rain, which spreads the spores. Garden fleece can provide temporary protection from rain.
“Whitewash the lower 30 centimetres of the tomato stems with lime paint. This reflects light, strengthens the tissue and makes it harder for pests such as tomato leaf miners to reach the plant. A simple trick with a big impact.”
For pests such as aphids, spraying them with a strong jet of water is often enough. Beneficial insects such as ladybird larvae control them effectively. Yellow sticky traps help against whiteflies.
, the “Wonder Shears”, is a practical all-purpose tool for the garden. Use it to precisely cut off diseased shoots without damaging healthy parts of the plant. You can find more useful helpers in the garden tools section.
Calcium deficiency and other physiological disorders
Not all problems are diseases. Blossom end rot is caused by calcium deficiency, often as a result of inconsistent watering. The fruit develops brown, leathery patches at the blossom end.
Water regularly and mulch the soil. In the event of an acute deficiency, a special calcium fertiliser sprayed directly onto the leaves can help. Incorporating garden lime into the soil the previous year can also help prevent it.
Fruit splitting is usually caused by major fluctuations in soil moisture. After a dry period, tomatoes absorb too much water during a downpour and the skin splits. Consistent watering helps prevent this.
Harvesting and using your tomatoes: the reward for your hard work
Harvest tomatoes when they are fully coloured and slightly soft to the touch. They should then come away easily from the plant with the stem attached. Cut or gently twist off the fruit.
Tomatoes continue to ripen after harvesting. Pick green fruit before the first frost and let it ripen indoors at room temperature. Place an apple alongside it to speed up the process.
Never store fresh tomatoes in the refrigerator. The cold destroys their flavour and makes the flesh mealy. Keep them at 12 to 16 degrees in a dark place.
Turn a large harvest into sauce, ketchup or chutney. Freezing is also possible: briefly blanch the tomatoes, remove the skins and freeze the flesh. Oven-dried tomatoes add an intense flavour.
With the right care and choice of variety, you can harvest fresh homegrown tomatoes from July to October. Their flavour far surpasses that of shop-bought produce. Start your project in the new gardening year.
Frequently Asked Questions
- When is the best time to start tomato seeds indoors?
- Start growing tomatoes indoors between mid-March and early April. The seeds germinate at a consistent 20 to 24 degrees Celsius within 10 to 14 days. This gives the young plants enough time to grow strong before they are moved outdoors after the Ice Saints in mid-May.
- Why do tomatoes develop brown spots at the blossom end?
- Brown, sunken spots at the blossom end are a sign of blossom end rot. This is caused by calcium deficiency, often resulting from inconsistent watering. The plant is then unable to absorb the nutrient. Consistent watering and good soil nutrition help prevent it.
- Do tomato plants always need to be pruned?
- Not all tomato varieties need pruning. Indeterminate tomatoes that grow upwards produce side shoots in the leaf axils. Remove these regularly so the plant can direct its energy into the fruit. Bush tomatoes and wild tomatoes generally do not need pruning.
- Can you grow tomatoes on a balcony?
- Yes, many compact varieties are ideal for growing on a balcony. Choose sufficiently large containers with a capacity of at least 10 litres and drainage holes. Balcony tomatoes and cherry tomatoes are particularly robust. Make sure they have a sunny, sheltered location and apply fertiliser regularly.
- What is the best way to store tomatoes after harvesting?
- Store fully ripe tomatoes at room temperature, never in the refrigerator. The cold destroys their flavour and makes them mealy. Green tomatoes will continue to ripen if you place them in a paper bag with an apple. The ethylene released by the apple speeds up the process.
You may also be interested in
- Planting tomatoes: your path to a bountiful harvest
- Tomato plants through the seasons: growing & care
- Nightshades: the guide to tomatoes, peppers & more
- Discover plant diversity in the garden
- Creating and caring for vegetable beds: the ultimate guide
- Hardening off tomato plants: how to safely acclimatise seedlings to the outdoors