In brief: Lay a new lawn properly by preparing the soil thoroughly. First remove all perennial weeds and stones. Then level the area with a lawn roller or a long board. Loosen the soil and improve it with sand or compost if necessary. Sow the right grass seed evenly, lightly roll it in and keep the area consistently moist for the next few weeks.
How do I lay a new lawn properly?
A dense, lush lawn starts long before sowing. The quality of the soil preparation determines whether you succeed or fail. Take your time with this step.
Start by assessing the site. Analyse the soil. Is it sandy, loamy or clay-based? A simple finger test will tell you. Sandy soil trickles through your fingers, while loamy soil can be shaped.
Mark out the future lawn with stakes and string. This provides clarity and helps with levelling later. Plan a slight slope of about two percent so rainwater can drain away.
The effort you put into preparing the soil will reward you for years in the form of a healthy, resilient lawn.
Remove old growth and perennial weeds
Remove the entire old turf. Use a sod cutter or a sharp spade. This work is strenuous, but necessary.
Perennial weeds such as ground elder, couch grass and field bindweed must be removed completely from the soil. Every root fragment left behind will sprout again. Otherwise, you will be fighting them in your new lawn for years.
Work thoroughly. This will save you a huge amount of work later when it comes to controlling weeds in your lawn.
Important note
Avoid using chemical total herbicides to clear the soil. They damage soil life for months. Mechanical removal is the cleanest and quickest method for a home garden.
How do I level and perfectly grade the ground?
A level surface is the basis for an even-looking lawn and safe mowing. Uneven ground leads to an inconsistent cutting height.
After digging and loosening the soil, carry out the rough levelling. Break up the large clods with a wide rake. Continue removing stones and root fragments as you work.
Now it is time for fine grading. Professionals use a long, straight piece of timber or a levelling board. Pull it across the area in a zigzag pattern. Fill in low spots with soil and remove raised areas.
This process requires patience. Repeat it several times. View the area from different angles and in raking light.
Pro tip
Lightly moisten the soil before the final levelling. Moist soil is easier to shape and will not settle as much afterwards. However, do not work on wet, muddy soil.
Compact the soil with a roller
After fine grading, lightly compact the top layer. Use a lawn roller filled halfway with water. Roll over the area once lengthwise and once crosswise.
The goal is not a hard slab, but a firm, stable base for the seed. The soil should not give way by more than one centimetre when you walk on it.
After rolling, lightly rake the surface once more with a spring-tine rake. This creates a fine tilth, providing ideal contact for the grass seed.
How do I prepare the soil for grass seed?
The physical levelling is complete. Now optimise the soil chemistry. A soil test from a garden centre will give you reliable information about the pH value and nutrients.
Most lawn grasses prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil with a pH value of 5.5 to 7.0. If the value is lower, spread lawn lime. If the pH value is too high, organic material such as compost can help.
Improve heavy clay soils by working in sharp sand. This promotes aeration and drainage. You can find suitable lawn sand here.
Adding sand to loamy soils is not a one-off measure. Make it part of your long-term lawn care, for example by regularly top-dressing with sand after scarifying.
Work in starter fertiliser
Before sowing, supply the soil with nutrients. A starter lawn fertiliser is the right choice here. It has a special nutrient composition with plenty of phosphorus to support root development.
Spread the fertiliser evenly according to the instructions on the pack. Then lightly work it into the surface with a rake, only about two centimetres deep. Working it in deeply is a mistake: the nutrients need to be in the germination zone.
Lightly water the fertilised soil before you start sowing. This activates the fertiliser and protects the seeds from an excessively high salt concentration later on.
Additional advice
For heavily used areas such as play lawns, use special sports and play lawn seed mixes from the outset. These varieties are more hard-wearing and recover faster.
How do I sow grass seed professionally?
Buy high-quality grass seed. Cheap mixes often contain forage grasses or fast-growing varieties that do not form a dense turf. The quality of the seed will affect the next ten years.
Measure your area accurately. The recommended sowing rate is 20 to 25 grams per square metre. Less leads to patchy growth, while more encourages fungal diseases due to overcrowding.
Divide the amount of seed into two halves. Sow the first half lengthwise and the second half crosswise. This guarantees even distribution. Use a spreader for large, uniform areas.
Work in and roll the seed
After sowing, the seeds should not be placed deep in the soil. Lightly work them in with a rake to a maximum depth of half a centimetre. Alternatively, pull a wide rake flat across the area.
Finally, roll the sown area once more. The lawn roller ensures the necessary seed-to-soil contact. This allows the seeds to access the soil's capillary water and germinate more reliably.
Water the area immediately after sowing and rolling. Use a rose attachment to avoid washing the seeds away. The soil must be moist right down to the depth of the seeds.
How do I care for a young lawn in the first few weeks?
The first four weeks are critical. Keep the area consistently moist, but not soaking wet. Water lightly in the morning on dry days and, if necessary, again in the evening.
Avoid heavy watering, which can wash away the fine seeds. A watering timer or a drip irrigation system such as the
Protect the area from birds. A lightweight cover sheet or bird protection netting can be useful for the first few days. The
is ideal as a temporary cover.
The first cut
Mow for the first time when the grass is about eight centimetres high. Set the mower to its highest setting and cut the blades down to around six centimetres.
The mower blade must be sharp. Blunt blades tear young grass out of the soil. Only mow in dry weather.
After the first cut, start regular lawn fertilisation. Use a slow-release lawn fertiliser that supplies the grass evenly over several weeks.
Products such as the
are useful for carrying out quick and secure repairs after working on the irrigation system without damaging the delicate new lawn.
Long-term care for a permanently lush green lawn
A perfectly laid lawn needs continuous care. Fertilise regularly, using a spring lawn fertiliser in spring and a special autumn lawn fertiliser in autumn.
Scarify once a year to remove thatch and improve aeration. Then apply lawn sand, especially on heavy soils.
For shady or heavily used areas, choose the right grass seed for overseeding. This allows you to close gaps quickly.
On paths or paved areas in the lawn, grass pavers prevent sinking and support the grass.
With this level of care when laying the lawn and consistent maintenance, you can enjoy a dense, green and healthy lawn for years to come.
Frequently asked questions
- When is the best time to lay a new lawn?
- The ideal time is in spring between April and May or in early autumn from late August to September. The soil is warm enough for quick germination, and there is usually sufficient rainfall. Avoid periods of late frost or summer heat and drought.
- How deeply should I dig the soil for a new lawn?
- Dig over the soil to about the depth of a spade, namely 20 to 25 centimetres. This loosens the ground, removes deep-rooted weeds and makes it easier to level the soil later. Very compacted soil should be loosened deeply with a digging fork to prevent waterlogging.
- Can I sow grass seed over old, dead grass?
- No. Remove the old lawn completely. Only sow grass seed on bare, prepared soil. Old turf or mulch can prevent the seedlings from emerging. This leads to uneven growth and increases the risk of fungal diseases in the new lawn.
- How long should I avoid walking on freshly seeded grass?
- Do not walk on the area for at least four to six weeks after sowing. The young grass needs time to develop a strong root system. Only after the third or fourth mowing, when the lawn is dense and resilient, can you use it normally.
- Do I need a special fertiliser when laying a lawn?
- Yes. Use a starter lawn fertiliser. It provides especially high levels of phosphorus to promote strong root development in young grass. A general-purpose garden fertiliser is often unsuitable for this purpose. After around six weeks, you can switch to a regular lawn fertiliser.
You might also be interested in
- Sowing a lawn: Step-by-step guide to a dense lawn
- Lawn care: How to achieve a green, dense and healthy lawn
- Sanding a lawn: When and how to improve your lawn
- Laying turf: Costs, preparation and practical tips
- Grass seed: Sown too much? Tips for the perfect lawn
- Laying a new lawn: How to create a green garden