In brief: You can lay tiles successfully by preparing the surface, applying tile adhesive with a notched trowel and laying the tiles in a straight grid pattern. For plastering, you need a level, clean surface. Apply interior plaster with a finishing trowel in two stages and finish by smoothing it with a sponge float. Both jobs require patience, careful work and the right tools.
Lay Tiles Yourself and Plaster Walls Properly
A new floor covering and smooth walls can completely transform a room. Both jobs are considered advanced DIY projects. With a systematic approach, the right tools and some practice, you can master them.
The key lies in the preparation. A stable, level and clean surface determines the result. Allow enough time for this stage.
How Do I Prepare the Surface for Tiles and Plaster?
Whether you want to plaster or lay tiles, the foundation must be right. Remove old wallpaper completely. Knock off any loose areas of plaster. Apply degreaser to heavily soiled surfaces.
Check how level the surface is with a spirit level or a long straightedge. Mark any hollows and raised areas with a pencil.
Important note
Drywall (gypsum board) requires special preparation. Fill the joints and screw holes. Then apply a deep-penetrating primer to reduce absorbency. This is the only way to ensure that tile adhesive or plaster will hold.
To lay tiles over old tiles, sand the surface thoroughly first. This improves adhesion. A bonding primer is essential here.
Transport heavy materials such as bags of plaster or boxes of tiles safely. A three-sided package cart protects your back and prevents floor damage.
Tools for Preparation
You need a hammer and chisel for removing old tiles or plaster. A sanding machine with coarse sandpaper prepares smooth surfaces. To fill holes and uneven areas, you need filler, a finishing trowel and a straightedge.
You spend most of the time on a tile-laying project preparing the surface. A perfect foundation cannot correct mistakes later.
What Steps Are Included in a Tile-Laying Guide?
Once the preparation is complete, you can start laying the tiles. Always begin from the center of the room. This helps you avoid unattractive narrow edge tiles in prominent areas.
Find the center of the wall or floor. Use a chalk line to mark two center lines at right angles. These lines guide the first row of tiles.
Applying Tile Adhesive and Laying the Tiles
Mix the tile adhesive according to the manufacturer's instructions. It should be creamy and should not drip from the trowel. Use a notched trowel. The notch depth depends on the tile size.
Apply the adhesive to a manageable area of about one square meter. Spread it evenly with the notched side. This creates ridges.
Pro tip
Back-butter large-format tiles as well. This means spreading a thin layer of adhesive on the back of the tile too. Then press the tile into the applied adhesive. This improves adhesion and minimizes hollow spots.
Place the first tile exactly at the intersection of your center lines. Twist it gently from side to side until it is firmly seated. Place tile spacers between each tile. They ensure even grout lines.
Check regularly with a spirit level that the tiles are level. Correct tiles that are sitting too low by carefully lifting them and adding more adhesive.
A sturdy four-sided cart is ideal for transporting heavy pallets of tiles outdoors.
Cutting Tiles and Finishing Work
You will need to cut edge and transition tiles. Measure the required remaining space precisely several times. Transfer the measurements to the tile with a square.
A manual tile cutter scores the glaze. Press the lever to snap the tile along the score line. For curved cuts or cutouts, use tile nippers or a wet saw.
Once the adhesive has cured, remove the tile spacers. Clean the grout lines thoroughly to remove adhesive residue. Then grout them with a rubber float or a grout float. Wipe away excess grout diagonally across the joints.
The grout line is the finishing touch on a tile. Clean, even grouting makes a good installation truly complete and protects against penetrating moisture.
How Do You Plaster a Wall Yourself?
Plastering may seem easier than tiling, but it requires a feel for the material. Mix the interior plaster exactly as instructed. Use a drill with a mixing paddle.
The consistency is right when the plaster is creamy and stays on the trowel without immediately running off. Let the mixed plaster set for a few minutes.
Applying and Spreading the Plaster
Start in a corner. Pick up some plaster with a finishing trowel or plastering trowel. Press it onto the wall with a sweeping motion from bottom to top.
Work in strips about one meter wide. First fill all larger holes and depressions. This is known as the scratch coat or base coat.
Additional advice
For high walls or ceilings, a plaster trough is worthwhile. It catches plaster from the trowel, allowing you to take manageable portions from it. This saves effort and reduces drips.
Immediately after applying the plaster, roughly level it with the notched side of a screed. This distributes the plaster evenly and removes excess.
After about 15 to 30 minutes, when the plaster has started to set, apply the finish coat. Smooth the surface with a clean finishing trowel or sponge float. Work with light pressure and circular movements.
A large mortar tub on a three-sided cart is suitable for mixing and transporting plaster. This lets you move the heavy material around easily.
Special Challenges: Corners and Edges
Plaster interior and exterior corners with special corner beads or by hand. For interior corners, press the plaster into the corner from both sides and smooth it with a small corner trowel.
Exterior corners are vulnerable. Use a metal corner bead. Attach it before plastering to give the corner support and a perfectly straight line.
After smoothing, allow the plaster to dry slowly and evenly. Avoid heated air or drafts during the first 48 hours.
What Tools Are Essential for DIY Interior Plastering?
The right tools make the work easier and improve the result. You need a sturdy stainless steel finishing trowel. It is your most important tool for applying and smoothing plaster.
An aluminum screed helps distribute and level plaster over larger areas. A sponge float with fine pores is used for final smoothing and creates a fine texture.
is a versatile finishing trowel for plaster and filler. Its polished stainless steel blade glides easily over the surface.
For mixing, you need a large bucket, a mixing paddle and a drill with sufficient power. A mortar board or plaster trough keeps fresh plaster within easy reach.
is a practical plaster bucket with an integrated pouring spout and liter scale. This helps you mix the correct proportions.
How can I avoid the most common mistakes?
The most common mistake is rushing. Allow twice as much time for each project as you initially expect. Haste leads to untidy grout lines, uneven plaster surfaces and wasted materials.
Do not ignore the manufacturer's instructions. Every tile adhesive and plaster has specific mixing ratios, working times and curing conditions. Follow them precisely.
Do not try to save money in the wrong places. Cheap notched trowels have imprecise teeth. Cheap trowels can rust or bend. Invest in good basic tools.
is a professional plastering screed. Its length and stability help you create truly level surfaces.
Always test new techniques on a test surface or an old board first. This is particularly important when grouting and smoothing plaster.
Organize your work area. Keep materials, tools and water within reach. A utility cart serves as a mobile workbench and storage area.
Conclusion: Patience and preparation lead to success
Laying tiles and plastering walls are demanding but learnable DIY tasks. Success depends less on natural talent than on careful planning.
Work step by step. Check each stage before moving on to the next. A level surface, the right materials and good tools are the foundation.
Do not hesitate to hire professional tools for specialist tasks such as cutting large numbers of tiles or plastering high ceilings. The result justifies the cost.
With every project, you gain experience and confidence. The tiles you lay and the walls you plaster yourself will fill you with pride for many years to come.
Frequently Asked Questions
- Can I lay tiles directly onto old plaster?
- This is risky. First check whether the old plaster is firm and sound. You must completely remove and repair any loose areas. Apply a bonding primer to absorbent old plaster to prevent the adhesive from drying too quickly. Level uneven surfaces with a self-levelling compound.
- Which plaster should I use for interior walls?
- For normal interior walls, machine-applied or ready-mixed gypsum plaster is suitable. It is easy to work with and regulates indoor humidity. For damp areas such as bathrooms or basements, use cement-based or cement-lime plaster. Always check the manufacturer's instructions for suitability and the correct mixing ratio.
- How can I cut tiles without a tile cutter?
- For straight cuts, a glass cutter and a snap cutter may sometimes be sufficient. Score the glaze and snap the tile. For cut-outs around electrical sockets, use tile nippers or a jigsaw with a diamond-coated blade. For complex shapes, hire a wet saw.
- Why does freshly applied plaster crack?
- Cracks are usually caused by the plaster drying too quickly. Avoid drafts and strong, direct sunlight on the fresh plaster surface. The plaster must be allowed to set evenly. Another possible cause is an incorrect mixing ratio or an uneven, unprimed surface.
- How long must tile adhesive cure before I can grout?
- Wait at least 24 hours, or preferably 48 hours. The adhesive must be completely dry. Check the curing time in the product description. Grouting too early pushes water into the still-soft adhesive joints and affects the tiles' adhesion.