Zum Inhalt springen

Blueberry vs. Bilberry: What’s the Difference?

Learn what sets blueberries and bilberries apart—and how to grow blueberry bushes successfully.
By the Westfalia editorial team · Updated on 03.09.2026
Created and reviewed by the Westfalia editorial team.

In brief: The terms blueberry and bilberry essentially refer to the same plant. In retail, "bilberry" often means the wild-growing bilberry with blue flesh. "Highbush blueberries" are cultivated varieties with lighter flesh, larger berries and higher yields. For growing in the garden, almost exclusively cultivated varieties are suitable because they have specific soil requirements.

Blueberry or bilberry? The difference

In everyday speech, we often use the terms interchangeably. However, there is a subtle botanical difference.

The wild bilberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) is the classic wild blueberry. Its flesh and juice are intensely blue. They stain your hands and tongue. This species grows in light woodland on acidic soils.

The highbush blueberry (Vaccinium corymbosum) originates from North American cultivated varieties. Its flesh is pale, often greenish-white. It does not stain. The berries are larger, the bushes taller and the yields considerably higher.

For your garden, cultivated highbush blueberries are therefore almost always the right choice. They are demanding, but the effort is worthwhile.

Why is growing highbush blueberries worthwhile?

You get fresh berries straight from the bush. They are often more flavorful than store-bought fruit, which is often picked too early for transport.

Blueberry bushes are attractive garden plants. In spring, they produce delicate white flowers; in summer, bright berries; and in autumn, fiery red foliage.

With the right choice of varieties, you can harvest from July through September. This significantly extends the harvest season.

The great advantage of cultivated blueberries is their vigorous growth and high yield. With good care, a single plant can produce several kg of fruit – a wild bilberry cannot match that.

Dr. Heiko Hübner, fruit-growing expert

Which varieties are suitable for the garden?

There is a wide choice. Each variety has its strengths. Choose according to ripening time, flavor and growth habit.

Early varieties such as

(highbush blueberry 'Patriot') get the season started. 'Patriot' is robust, frost-hardy and produces reliable yields even in cooler areas.

Mid-season varieties are the heart of the harvest. This is where

(highbush blueberry 'Bluecrop') shines. It is the most widely grown variety worldwide, highly reliable, drought-tolerant and produces large, firm berries.

Late varieties extend the berry season.

(highbush blueberry 'Chandler') produces the largest berries of all the varieties. The harvest starts late and continues for several weeks.

Expert tip

Always plant at least two different varieties. Cross-pollination noticeably increases the yield and fruit size. Combine an early variety with a mid-season or late variety for a long harvest season.

How do I find the right variety for me?

Compact varieties such as 'Top Hat' are suitable for small gardens or containers. For maximum yields in a bed, vigorous varieties such as 'Bluecrop' are ideal.

Pay attention to the stated winter hardiness. Most of the varieties mentioned are hardy down to -25°C. In very harsh locations, 'Patriot' or 'Northland' are particularly reliable.

Flavor varies. 'Duke' tastes sweet and aromatic, while 'Chandler' is very sweet with mild acidity. Try different varieties when you get the opportunity.

How do you grow blueberries successfully?

The most common reason for failure is the wrong soil. Highbush blueberries require acidic soil with a pH value between 4,0 and 5,0.

The ideal location and soil

Choose a spot in full sun. Only in the sun will the berries become sweet. The soil must be loose, rich in humus and well drained. Waterlogging leads to root rot.

In most German gardens, the soil contains too much lime. You therefore need to prepare it carefully.

Important note

Never plant blueberries in ordinary garden soil or compost. The lime they contain raises the pH value, and the plants become stunted due to iron deficiency (chlorotic, yellow leaves). You must use a special acidic substrate.

Planting in a bed or container

Dig a generous planting hole for each plant, approximately 50x50x50 cm. Fill it with special rhododendron or blueberry soil. It is pre-fertilized and has the correct pH value.

Place the root ball at the same depth as it was in the container. Firm the soil down gently and water thoroughly with rainwater.

A mulch layer made from shredded conifer bark or spruce branches retains moisture, suppresses weeds and keeps the soil acidic. You can find the necessary tools in our Garden Tools category.

Planting in pure peat substrate is outdated and ecologically questionable. Modern soils based on bark humus, wood fibers and coconut coir offer a sustainable alternative with the same benefits for plants.

Bundesinformationszentrum Landwirtschaft

For growing in a container, choose a large pot (min. 30 liters). Use only acidic container plant soil and ensure good drainage. Regular watering is essential in containers. You can find watering cans and accessories under Garden Watering.

Year-Round Care: Pruning & Fertilizing

Blueberries are perennial plants and need the right care in every season.

Fertilizing correctly for a bountiful harvest

Fertilize in spring (April/May) with a special berry fertilizer or rhododendron fertilizer. These fertilizers acidify the soil and contain all the necessary nutrients.

Apply a second, light dose after flowering. Do not fertilize after August so the shoots can mature before winter. Suitable products are available in our Plant Fertilizer & Flower Fertilizer category.

Additional advice

Use rainwater for watering whenever possible. Tap water often contains too much lime and gradually raises the pH around the roots. A rain barrel is a great investment.

Pruning young and established bushes correctly

Blueberries do not need pruning during their first three years. Only remove frost-damaged or diseased shoots.

Starting in the fourth year, prune regularly in late winter. Remove two to three of the oldest main stems close to ground level. This encourages young, fruit-bearing shoots.

Remove side shoots that are too close together or weak. An open structure helps prevent fungal diseases. Leave around 6-8 strong main stems in place.

Harvesting, Storing, and Using Blueberries

Harvest the berries when they are fully colored and come away easily from the stem. Pick carefully to avoid damaging their delicate, waxy coating.

Fresh blueberries keep for several days in the refrigerator. They also freeze well. To freeze them, spread the dry berries in a single layer on a tray and freeze until firm, then store them in portions in bags.

As well as eating them fresh, they are ideal for cakes, jam, smoothies, or as a topping for granola and desserts. Dried, they make a healthy addition to trail mix.

Enjoying your harvest for longer

Harvest every few days. That way, you always pick the ripest berries and give the others time to ripen.

Use shallow containers to collect the berries and prevent bruising. Wash them just before eating.

Common Problems and Solutions

Yellow leaves with green veins (chlorosis) are the classic sign of iron deficiency caused by a pH that is too high. Lower the pH by watering with rainwater and adding a mulch of conifer needles. Use a special fertilizer containing iron.

Birds love blueberries. Protect your harvest early with netting. Suitable protective nets can be found in the Tarps + Nets category.

Root rot can occur in areas that are too wet. Ensure good drainage. Prevent fungal diseases such as botrytis by pruning to keep the bush open and removing rotten fruit. If necessary, you can find Plant Protection products in our shop.

With the right choice of variety, careful planting in acidic soil, and regular care, your garden blueberries will provide abundant harvests for many years. They are a worthwhile investment for any edible garden.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I plant wild bilberries from the forest in my garden?
This is not recommended. Wild bilberries depend on specific forest soils and symbiotic relationships with fungi that are difficult to recreate in a garden. They grow very slowly and produce little fruit. Instead, choose hardy garden blueberry varieties such as 'Bluecrop' or 'Patriot', which were bred for cultivation.
What kind of location do garden blueberries need?
Garden blueberries need a spot in full sun. They produce plenty of flowers and sweet fruit only when they get enough light. The soil must be acidic, rich in humus, and well drained. A sheltered spot protects the long shoots. Avoid areas with standing water or strong competition from tree roots.
Do I need to plant more than one blueberry bush for a good harvest?
Most garden blueberry varieties are self-fertile, so a single bush will produce fruit. However, experts recommend planting at least two different varieties for a significantly higher yield and larger berries. Cross-pollination greatly improves fruit production.
How often should I water my blueberries?
Blueberries have shallow roots and need consistent moisture, especially while the fruit is developing in June and July. Water regularly, but avoid waterlogging. Lime-free water, such as rainwater, is ideal. A mulch of bark humus or conifer needles retains moisture and keeps the soil acidic.
When and how should I prune my blueberry bushes?
Regular pruning is important starting in the fourth year. In late winter, remove old, weak shoots close to ground level and thin out the center. Leave 6-8 strong main stems in place. This rejuvenation pruning encourages strong new growth and large berries on young shoots.
Identify Garden Butterflies: A Practical Guide
Learn how to identify butterflies with confidence and support them in your garden.